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| The
Desmarais-Duchesne Saga Or Apple Production in
Mont St-Grégoire
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Left,
J.M. Talbot, centre, J.F. Desmarais,
right, Deslongchamps, rear, J.E.D.
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In
1875, Quebec had about 250 producers and 189 apple varieties, but each orchard
generally had 50 to 100 apple trees (20,400 trees in total). The establishment
of an orchard that would have more than 2,000 apple trees was a true
challenge.
1920: Joseph Félix
Desmarais buys lots 158-160-167 in Mont-St-Grégoire (land and house of Yvan
Duchesne, “cottage” and “big orchard”).
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1921: Joseph Édouard
Duchesne receives his agronomist designation with a specialization in
apple production (Oka) and is hired by the province of Quebec as an instructor.
He lives in Iberville, where he meets J.F.D. at the Knights of
Columbus; they decide to work together to promote apple production, and this
leads to a formal legal association between them and the operation of the
orchard on the lots below. J.F.D. buys part of lot 159, about 2 arpents
by 3 arpents, behind the “cottage” (see paragraph 5 of the deed passed on
to J.E.D. in 1932). |

Joseph Edouard Duchesne
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1926: J.F.D. and J.E.D.
hold an apple exhibition in February at the Queen’s Hotel in Montreal for
the Pomological Society, of which J.E.D. is the secretary (1871:
society founded; 1922: 111 members, of which 71 are Anglophone; 1951: 433
members; society dissolved when dues are increased to $10 a year. In 1969, the
Association des pomiculteurs [apple producers’ association] is formed,
to be replaced in 1974 by the Fédération des pomiculteurs [apple
producers’ federation], made up of five regional unions). |
| 1927: Joseph Félix
Desmarais buys more land, lots 181-182, to establish an orchard consisting
of 2,500 standard apple trees, on the site of the current orchard belonging to
Pierre Desmarais, son of Rodolphe and grandson of Ulric (who
was J.F.D.’s brother). The first Melba apples in Quebec are planted
here.

1927: As the provincial
official responsible for apple and berry production (strawberries, raspberries,
blueberries), J.E.D. has to cover Quebec as far as Lac St-Jean and has
an office in Montreal in the La Sauvegarde building. As secretary of the
Pomological Society and later its president, he inspects all commercial
orchards to promote their development.
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Jean
Duchesne

Pierre Desmarais
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1928: Ulric Desmarais
buys the above orchard from J.F.D. (after Euclide Desmarais, who
is J.F.D.’s other brother and Denis Desmarais’s father,
refuses to buy it).
1929:
J.F.D. buys another part of lot 159 from Arthur Choquette in
order to enlarge “Verger de la Montagne” (Yvan Duchesne); this part
is known as “Bouchard’s.”
1930: Sabin Lemonde
(J.F.D.’s former employee) buys the site of the current “Verger
Monnoir;” the land is later sold to Romual Meunier, then to Jean
Duchesne and Paul Deschenes, and finally to Marie Deschenes
Fraser. J.F.D. sells orchard lots 181-182 to his brother, Ulric.
J.F.D. participates in creating the “Verger modèle” [model orchard]
cooperative in Frelighsburg (see notes below).
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1932: First notarized
memorandum of association between J.F.D. and J.E.D. for the
orchard
1933:
J.E.D. publishes a brochure on the techniques and art of packaging
apples, the only publication in French on apple marketing.
1934:
Rodolphe Desmarais establishes an orchard on the land that today is
home to “Bain Magique,” formerly “Verger Lanthier” and “Parizat.”
1935:
Association agreement between J.F.D. and J.E.D. for “Verger de
la Montagne.”
1939:
J.E.D. is a part-time lecturer at the Oka Agricultural Institute.
1941:
J.F.D. obtains permission for J.E.D.’s services to be lent to
the Coopérative fédérée de Québec [Quebec federated cooperative]
to develop apple, fruit and vegetable marketing. J.E.D. is appointed by
the Coop fédérée, which J.F.D. manages, to represent Quebec
on the federal committee of the wartime price control board.
1942:
Ulric Desmarais buys the “Verger Pierre Tremblay” site and in 1945
sells it to his daughter and son-in-law, Berthe and Armand Tremblay.
Ulric also buys lot 180 for his son, Jean-Paul; the orchard is
later sold to Jean-Marc Charbonneau and then to his son, Denis. J.E.D
is elected president of the Montreal section of the Corporation des
agronomes du Québec [corporation of agronomists of Quebec].
1944:
J.E.D. is hired full-time by J.F.D. for the Coop fédérée
and works there until 1968. Ulric Desmarais buys the current site of
“Verger Faubert” for his daughter, Violette, wife of Marcel
Baraby. Ulric Desmarais buys the current site of “Verger Luc
Charbonneau” for his son, Rodolphe.
1946: Rodolphe moves
to the current site of the Pierre Desmarais orchard (Denis
Charbonneau in part), and Ulric remains on the current site of the Luc
Charbonneau orchard and later (1952) sells to his daughter, Rachelle,
wife of Laurent Charbonneau. All these orchards were planted under the
supervision of J.E.D., agronomist and pomologist.
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Rodolphe Desmarais

Yvan Duchesne
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1949:
From J.F.D.’s estate, J.E.D. buys half of J.F.D.’s
interest in “Verger de la Montagne.” Ulric Desmarais buys the
“Verger modèle” in Frelighsburg (property of J.F.D.’s estate,
for his son, Jean-Paul).
1953:
Ulric sells the orchard (lots 181-182) to his son, Rodolphe.
1961:
Fabiola
Desmarais (wife of the late Rodolphe) sells the orchard to her son,
Pierre. Lots 181-182.
1964:
J.E.D. sells the land on which J.D.’s house sits, "Verger
de la Montagne," to Jean.
1969-
J.E.D. sells the orchard to
J.D.
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1975-
Partial sale to Gérard
Gagnière (house and undivided portion).
1979-
J.E.D. sells
the “cottage” to Louise Duchesne.
1984-
Louise D. sells
the “cottage” to Bernard D.
1987- Yvan Duchesne acquires J.D.’s
interests (except for the home) and the interests of Gérard Gagnière’s
estate.
1998-
The Pierre Desmarais orchard is sold to Denis
Charbonneau, son of Jean-Marc.
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NOTES
Until
about 1920, the majority of the apple producers in Montérégie were
Anglophones, and they founded the Pomological Society. Beginning in 1922,
the society added a “French Secretary,” J.E.D., to its officers,
and J.E.D. held this office for 25 years before becoming the
president. In February 1926, J.F.D. and J.E.D. held an apple
exhibition at the Queen’s Hotel in Montreal (refrigerated facilities were
not yet available). The exhibition was a great success. Photos of this event
and of the presentation of a box of apples to His Worship, Mayor Médéric
Martin, are on display in the sales stand at “Verger
de la Montagne” (Y.D.). From 1921 to 1950, a number of symposia
on apple production were held at this location with the participation of Father
Léopold and Father Honoré, of the Oka Agricultural Institute,
which offered the agronomy program and had a research station. From 1898 to
1925, the Quebec government established experimental stations in some 13
counties, following the signing by certain apple producers of a contract,
for a five-year period and annual payments of $25, to promote research and
education for apple producers. Around 1925, it was declared that this goal
was achieved, and the stations were abolished. The government then began
promoting “demonstration orchards” in accordance with a cooperative
formula, with the result that J.F.D. and some 30 members, producers
and other interested individuals created the “Verger modèle” in
Frelighsburg. P.O. Roy was hired by this association.
In 1930, however, experimental plots still survived on land
belonging to a few producers, including “Verger
de la Montagne” (Y.D.). Later, P.O. Roy worked with the
Ottawa experimental station to create new varieties and cultivars. Today, Yvan
Duchesne (“Verger de la Montagne”) has a signed agreement with
Agriculture Canada to cultivate experimental plots for new cultivars and
varieties, on the basis of earlier research conducted by Dr. Raymond
L. Granger before his retirement. Yvan Duchesne is also one of
the first founding members of an association of several producers called Pomme-Plus
[apple plus], which conducts research on production techniques and
cost-effectiveness. The association is assisted by a technician, Roland
Joannin, who was hired especially for these purposes by Pomme-Plus.
And thus is the spirit of the Desmarais-Duchesne saga in Mont-St-Grégoire
perpetuated.
J.E.D.
was also a founding member of the Corporation des agronomes du Québec,
in 1937 (with William Houde, father of Laurent H.). In 1946,
the average salary for agronomists was increased to $1,600–$1,800 a year.
P.O.
Roy, agronomist
(1926), was first hired by the province of Quebec for the Bedford area (Frelighsburg,
Dunham). It would appear that, with the disappearance of the experimental
stations around 1927, P.O. Roy was hired by the “Verger modèle”
(J.F.D.) and subsequently worked in collaboration with the Ottawa
experimental station and, from 1960 to 1967, at the Agriculture Canada
station in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu.
Around
1940, Quebec’s apple producers were under the supervision of J.E.D.,
who was also the secretary of the Pomological Society and would later become
its president. A resident agronomist, Roland Lorquet, was named in
Frelighsburg, but because of his health he was not able to perform his
duties fully for several years. Consequently, J.E.D. visited his
district regularly.
In
Mont-St-Grégoire, before the apple trees were planted beginning in 1921 on
the site of “Verger de la Montagne,” there were no
commercial orchards, only the few apple trees on lot 159 of the above
orchard, known as “Bouchard’s” or the “rock orchard”. In “Verger
de la Montagne,” there was a small house, about 10 x 20, known as the
“honey camp” because people would go there to collect honey. Yvan
Duchesne is therefore the third consecutive generation of apple
producers on this land since 1921. It is on this lot, number 159, that
the “Macoun” variety was planted for the first time in Quebec, as
part of the experimental plots, in 1930.
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«Ad Futuram Memoriam - In Everlasting Memory»
“Even
if I knew that tomorrow the world would go to pieces, I would still plant my
apple tree.” —Martin Luther King Jr.
“Pour
une année où il y a des pommes, il n’y a pas de pomme. Mais pour une année
où il n’y a pas de pommes, y a des pommes.” [For a year in which there
are apples, there are no apples. But for a year in which there are no apples,
there are apples.] —Adolphe d’Ennery, La fille du paysan
“An
apple a day keeps the doctor away.” And, as Winston Churchill added,
“Especially if you aim carefully.”
«Finis
Coronat Opus
- – The End Crowns the Deed»
Appendice
For
the orchards that I had the opportunity to visit with my father during the
period of 1935 to 1945 or so, I remember the names of the following owners for
the Frelighsburg area only: Simard, Bernier, Bussières, Deslongchamps,
Dufresne, Duquette, Hudon, Roy, Godbout, Verger modèle, Tougas, Desmarais.
This is not an exhaustive list.
January
2004
Jean Duchesne
RÉFÉRENCES
Histoire
de la pomologie au Québec
Jean-Baptiste Roy, Agronomist, Ed.
Quebec 1978, No-A-309, Quebec Department of Agriculture
Various
notarial deeds concerning the titles for the “Verger
de la Montagne” land
Personal
archives of Raymond Granger, an agronomist specializing in apple physiology
Personal
recollections
Histoire
de la Corporation des agronomes de la province de Québec 1937–1970
Jean-Baptiste Roy, Agronomist
Limited edition, 1971
Cueillette
et emballages de pommes
J. Ed. Duchesne, BSA, Pomologist
Quebec Department of Agriculture, 1933, Bulletin No. 123
Pierre
Desmarais, apple producer
Annual
reports of the Pomological Society, 1916–1930
Additional notes
Until his retirement in 1968, J.E.D. never took any holidays. He
saved his two weeks of vacation for apple picking season, looking after the
grading himself while J.F.D. took care of the actual picking in the
orchard. The first automatic grader in a private orchard was probably the one
installed here in the 1930s; a generator provided the power, since electricity
did not come to the orchard until 1949. The telephone did not arrive until
1952.
J.F.D.
surrounded himself with a team of agronomists in the various positions at the Coop
fédérée, e.g.: Roméo Martin, Raynald Ferron, H.C. Bois, Léo Filion
and W. Tawse.
Upon
J.F.D.’s death in 1949, they went one weekend up to Lac Saguay, where
a friend of our family, Father Jean Frédéric, PSS, of the Collège de
Montréal, had lent them his cottage. This group of friends agreed to suggest
to the board of the Coop fédérée that Raynald Ferron be
appointed executive director, and this suggestion was ratified without
difficulty.
R.
Martin, L. Filion and
sometimes others as well used part of their vacation to work here during
picking season, and they stayed in the “cottage.”
There
were also real sugaring off parties at the cabin, and they included the
“reduction” made from J.F.D.’s recipe: one ounce of brown
demerara rum in a reduction that had not been boiled down too much, i.e. that
was not too sweet.
On
the site of “Verger de la
Montagne,” there had previously been a distillery and brewery. Arthur
Rondeau, who worked here for several years from 1930 to 1940, told me that
it had been located near the railway on the west side, close to the tennis
court.
He
also gave me a photocopy of a notarized protest, signed by the notary Lemay
and witnessed by Joseph Déry and somebody with the last name of Benoit,
from the Honourable Justice Jean-Rock Rolland, Seigneur of Monnoir, to
his tenant, James White, for repossession of the distillery and brewery
for failure to pay the rent, July 19, 1836.
See
the letter of November 30, 1983, from François to his uncle, Arthur
Rondeau, filed with the titles to the orchard.
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